Past and current presidents have enforced bizarre beliefs and personal eccentricities, shaping the country’s strict and centralized regime. It is also notoriously difficult to obtain a visa, making it even harder to visit this mysterious nation. This isolated and enigmatic country attracts only about 10,000 to 20,000 visitors annually, making it one of the least visited countries in the world. Despite its harsh governance, Turkmenistan remains a fascinating place with a unique blend of ancient history and eccentric modern architecture.
Ashgabat
An Unexpected City of Extremes
Rising from Central Asia’s Karakum Desert is Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s capital city – an eerily empty metropolis made almost entirely of white marble. It is certainly one of the most surreal places in the world.
The Alem Entertainment Center cost $90 million and is the largest enclosed Ferris wheel in the world.
Bright, Clean, and Empty
As we entered the city, the first impression was its brightness, cleanliness and emptiness. Nearly every building is covered in gleaming white marble, making the city almost blinding under the sun. The roads are immaculate, and the gardens are meticulously maintained. But the overwhelming emptiness is impossible to ignore. There are barely any people to admire the city’s grandeur.
Presidential Playground
What do you do when you’re an all-powerful leader sitting on one of the world’s largest gas reserves?
You build. And you build big.
Golden domes litter the city; massive statues, futuristic monuments, and grand fountains adorn the city, yet there is hardly anyone around to appreciate them. Guards stand at attention, but there’s no one to protect the monuments from.
A City Designed for Appearances
Ashgabat’s emptiness can be attributed to government control and urban planning focused on showcasing wealth and power rather than addressing the practical needs of the population. Much of the city’s infrastructure does not serve a direct purpose for residents. Strict regulations and high temperatures also contribute to limited outdoor activity and the underuse of public spaces.
White Marble Everywhere
Ashgabat holds the Guiness record for the highest density of white marble-clad buildings anywhere in the world. Approximately 4.5 million square meters of the stone spread across 543 buildings. The equivalent of 632 standard size football pitches. That was in 2013, and in the years since, it has continued to grow.
A Legacy of Power
The men behind the architectural feat do not want you to forget who is responsible. Turkmenistan has had three leaders since gaining independence in 1991, each leaving a distinct mark on the nation.
Saparmurat Niyazov, the first president and self-declared “Turkmenbashi” (Father of All Turkmen), ruled until his death 2006 with a personality cult marked by eccentric policies, such as renaming months after himself and his family, and constructing grand monuments symbolizing his rule.
In 2007, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov succeeded him, continuing many of Niyazov’s authoritarian practices while imposing his own eccentricities, like banning black cars in favor of white ones, deemed “good luck.” His portrait became a staple on public buildings, maintaining the cult of leadership.
In 2022, Serdar Berdimuhamedov succeeded his father, marking the start of a dynastic rule. His leadership has upheld tight control, including a ban on large dogs in some areas to preserve the capital’s pristine image, continuing the pattern of centralized power and unusual regulations.
Monument to Neutrality. The monument is topped by a 12-meter tall gold-plated statue of Turkmenistan's first President Saparmurat Niyazov which rotates to always face the sun.
Symbol of the Eight-Pointed Star
The country’s eight-pointed star symbol is found everywhere: on elevators, railings, windows, street furniture, paving stones, and billboards. Some monuments are even built in the shape of this symbol. Its presence is so widespread that it almost feels like a cult.
The Palace of Happiness, a marriage registry office
The Mahtumkulu Firaki Monument, a revered Turkmen poet and philosopher.
Book of the Soul
The Ruhnama, or “Book of the Soul,” was authored by Saparmurat Niyazov, Turkmenistan’s first president, and became a cornerstone of public life during his rule. It was treated as a sacred text, prominently displayed in mosques and schools, and its teachings were integrated into education and governance.
In an extraordinary example of its influence, knowledge of the Ruhnama was required to pass the national driving test. Its pervasive presence solidified Niyazov’s personality cult, shaping both the cultural and political fabric of Turkmenistan.
However, after Niyazov’s death in 2006, the importance of the Ruhnama began to fade. Under his successors, its role in public life diminished, and it no longer holds the central status it once did.
The Ruhnama monument in Ashgabat features a striking design with a mechanism that opens the giant book, symbolizing the ongoing significance of the work during Niyazov’s rule.
Faith Under Strict Control
Islam is central to Turkmenistan, with 93% of the population being Sunni Muslim. Suppressed during the Soviet era, it saw a revival after independence in 1991, with mosque construction and renewed traditions. Despite this, the government enforces strict control, requiring religious organizations to register and banning unregistered activities to maintain national policies and prevent extremism.
The Turkmenbashy Ruhy Mosque is the legacy of its first president, Saparmurat Niyazov, who is buried in the adjoining mausoleum alongside his family. Built in 2004, the mosque, one of the largest in Central Asia, can accommodate up to 10,000 worshippers. Despite its size and opulence, it is often empty, as many devout Muslims avoid it due to controversial inscriptions from Niyazov’s Ruhnama displayed alongside Quranic verses.
A Grand Welcome
Ashgabat International Airport, opened in 2016, is a state-of-the-art facility with a capacity to handle over 1.5 million passengers annually. However, due to strict visa policies, limited tourism, and high restrictions on local citizens traveling abroad, the airport operates at just around 1-2% of its full capacity, serving fewer than 20,000 visitors per year. The airport’s spacious terminal, designed to resemble a flying falcon, reflects the country’s wealth with luxurious architecture.
Closed for Reconstruction
A phrase we frequently heard.
Ashgabat is one of the most isolated cities in the world, with tourists typically permitted entry by invitation and required to rely on state-guided tours to explore the city. Most hotels are state-owned, luxurious but often empty or closed.
Visitors face numerous restrictions, including limited access to certain areas, strict rules on photography, and constant surveillance by police and military personnel, who often send tourists away or force them to delete photos from their cameras. Walking through the city, tourists often sense the suspicion of locals, as many are wary of outsiders due to the country’s pervasive surveillance.
Guardians of Tradition
Horses and dogs hold deep cultural and historical significance in Turkmenistan, symbolizing strength, prestige, and national pride. The Turkmen people have a long-standing connection to these animals, which have been integral to their nomadic lifestyle and traditions.
The Akhal-Teke horse, known for its speed, endurance, and metallic sheen, is one of the world’s most ancient and beautiful breeds. Revered for its role in transportation, warfare, and ceremonies, it has become a national symbol of Turkmenistan. The breed is highly valued, with many families owning and breeding Akhal-Tekes, and it is prominently featured in cultural celebrations and festivals.
Dogs, particularly the Alabai breed, are also crucial to Turkmen culture. Known for their loyalty and protective nature, Alabais have historically guarded livestock and homes. In 2017, Turkmenistan declared the Alabai the national dog, celebrating its importance and contributions to the country’s heritage.
People’s Memory
The memorial complex honors Turkmenistan’s history and heroes. At its center is the “Eternal Flame,” symbolizing respect for those who sacrificed for the country. Surrounding statues and plaques commemorate key events, including Turkmenistan’s struggles during World War II and its path to independence. The memorial serves as a place of reflection and a symbol of the nation’s dedication to preserving its heritage.
The Gates of Hell
A Fiery Crater in the Karakum Desert Burning Since 1971
The Karakum Desert is a massive expanse of sun-scorched sand dunes covering roughly 70% of Turkmenistan. You could wander through this parched badlands for weeks and only see the endless crests and valleys of the Karakum's barren wilderness. But if you make your way to the desert's north-central plain, you may stumble upon a truly surreal site: the Darvaza Crater, a molten gas pit that has been spewing fire for decades and is known as "The Gates of Hell".
In 1971, Soviet geologists were drilling for natural gas in the Karakum Desert when their operation accidentally caused the ground to collapse, creating a massive crater. This event was part of a top-secret Soviet project, and the exact details of what happened remain unclear. The most common story is that the collapse exposed an underground gas cavern, and to prevent the release of toxic methane gas, the Soviets decided to set the crater on fire, expecting it to burn out within weeks. However, the fire has been burning ever since.
